Air Flow – Carburetors, Vintage Lights and “Cute” Traction Bars

By: Bob Goodson
April 19, 2020
Author: Michael Yount
 
Well, once the ignition timing was sorted, it turns out that balancing the carbs was a pretty anti-climatic procedure.  I bought a fancy air flow meter.  The scale is in kg/hr – that’s air flow.
 

As you can see in the short video, you insert the end of the meter into the carb opening.  Get a measurement.  Then insert into the second carb opening and get a measurement.  There is a screw (see vid) that basically adjusts the amount of throttle opening of one carb relative to the other one.  So by turning that, you can match the air flow between the carbs.  Then, you set idle air mixture on all 4 runners.  I started at the front and worked my way to the back.  Turn the mixture screw closed until you shut off fuel and the engine starts missing on that cylinder.  Then, while counting turns, open it up until it gets so rich that you can hear it begin to run poorly again.  Now – set the screw halfway between the two.  Then go back and rebalance.  It took all of about 5 minutes to do the whole thing.  Big difference in throttle response and drivability.  This thing is plenty happy at 1500 rpm in 5th gear with all of about 40 lb-ft of torque.  Except for cold start – it’s driving like it had EFI.  At some point, adding a wide-band O2 sensor and really getting into the jetting and accelerator pump settings would be ideal — but that will wait.

The car has the cutest little “slapper style” traction bars on it you’ve ever seen.  You got a glimpse of them in the previous post showing the rear lowering blocks.  The snubbers were adjusted so they were touching the leaf springs.  The snubbers were in terrible shape.  So I found some shorter poly snubbers that would work and installed them so I have about an inch gap to the spring.  Now, in my mind, I can do smokey burnouts without a trace of wheel hop.

My good friend John “loaned” me a set of Cibie 7″ European code (E-code) headlights for the car.   He’d been carrying these things around for decades — yummy! 

A bit of a pain to install as access to the electrical plug is blocked by the battery on one side and by the radiator overflow reservoir on the other.  Adjusting them was interesting.  Toyota saw fit to design this where you have to undo the adjusters all the way to replace a headlight.  So any headlight replacement results in a required re-aiming.  I followed Daniel Stern’s guidelines ( http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html ) for aiming.  I set up a ‘target’ on the wall in the garage — big pieces of paper I could mark on.  Luckily, I can back the car out of the garage and with a pretty level surface, get it 25′ feet away from the wall.  (On other cars, I’ve done this in Walmart parking lots before – fun explaining to the security guards what you’re doing.)  I established the centerline of the car by shooting a home construction laser down the hood ridgeline.  If you look closely you’ll see the garage door opener reflected in that shiny Viper Red paint.  Mark that centerline spot on the wall with the bumper almost touching the wall.  Also mark the center of each headlight beam.  Then back the car up 25′ while keeping the laser pointing at the center mark on the wall – tougher than you think!  Then follow Daniel’s guidelines for adjustment.

2 Comments

  1. Lee

    Aiming headlamps on any vehicle without bubble levelers built in is pain enough, let alone old school lites like these. Been there done that in many a 2002’s. Love the Cibie’s!

    Reply
    • Michael Yount

      Thanks Lee – yup, just about as analog as any process can be. But the laser level added a nice bit of accuracy to the process.

      Reply

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