Toyota 2TG Test Fitting Cams and Piston to Valve Checking

By: Bob Goodson
March 13, 2022

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Pictures and Text by: Michael Yount

There are two 8mm dowels that help position the head.  I had to remove them in order to put the proper finish on the head for the new head gasket (part 11….).  One of them came out relatively unscathed.  The second — not so much.  Had to put a pair of vice grips on it vertically (sticking straight up in the air) and then another pair of grips squeezing the jaws on the vertical pair – the second pair parallel to the block deck – so I could tap “up” with a hammer.  I also applied some heat to the block.  Finally got it out – but it was pretty boogered up from the vice grips.  I wish I’d had the foresight to take a picture of the vice grips – it was a thing of beauty.
 
Grainger sold me 10 (min quantity) 8mm dowels x 22mm long.  You have to be really careful with the length — leave it a bit too long and the you can really tear things up when you try to torque the head.  Also chucked them up in the drill press and used a bit of sand paper to slightly reduce the diameter.  Measure 7 or 10 times and then cut/sand.  Heated the block up and tapped the new ones into place.  Worked great — you have to set the head down on them simultaneously.  If you let one slide on, the other one can’t get started.
Had to do that so I could test fit the head and figure out how to get the cam drive chains back on and adjust the upper chain tensioner.  Success was achieved – used the old head gasket fir mock up.
 
Said chain tensioner.  I’d describe how to set the tension – but it’s impossible to explain.  The factory manual was no help to me – but in a facebook group (necessary evil with this car) I met an expert in Finland who talked me through it via video.
If you look on the left side of the head you’ll see the tensioner screwed in.  Pretty easy to set up chain drive and adjust the cam timing.  So when head gasket arrives, assembly should be straightforward.
 
Mocked up without spark plugs I could turn the motor over with both hands on the crank pulley….so, no piston/valve shenanigans.
On to the rear main seal….

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